Here are five unique and wonderful places in Southern Italy that I totally adore. Each time I visit, I fall in love all over again, as if it were the very first time. It’s my pleasure to share them for your next trip to Southern Italy.
Campania Region, Amalfi Coast
(3 hours’ drive south of Rome or 1 hour drive south of Naples)
Incredibly, there’s still a very special town on the Amalfi Coast that remains somewhat unknown. That’s especially surprising once you’ve seen colorful, whimsical, one-of-a-kind Vietri sul Mare. Every time I visit, I imagine this must be how the Amalfi Coast felt before tourism overtook this region.
Aside from its cheerful, authentic charm what I love best about Vietri, is its ubiquitous creativity. A flourishing center for the ceramics industry since the 15th century, its ceramics are now a regional attraction. Everywhere you look are tile mosaics, hand-painted ceramic plaques, public sculptures, and an endless variety of functional and art pottery.
Coming from the direction of Salerno, Vietri is the first stop on the spectacular Amalfi Coast. The town’s main street, Corso Umberto, is a welcoming jumble of artisan shops, cafes, and small restaurants, with a small intimate plaza at each end for savoring postcard-like views of the Mediterranean. If you’re a ceramics fan, or know someone who is, don’t miss the delightful Museum of Ceramics at Villa Guariglia. And do explore Vietri’s winding, picturesque alleys and Neapolitan Baroque tile-roofed Duomo.
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Campania Region (1 hour by ferry from Naples)
Beautiful, serene Ischia is the largest island in the Gulf of Naples. Just an hour-long boat ride from the mainland, generations of Neapolitan families have traditionally spent their summer holidays here. Relaxed and low-key, Ischia feels distinctly different from its glitzy sister island, Capri. Right away you’ll notice far less tourists and many more locals.
Unlike Capri, Ischia is not a quick day trip. But it is an ideal place to rest and recharge for a few days amidst tiny, photogenic towns, gorgeous beaches with clear blue water and, a wealth of thermal springs. Just as the ancient Romans did, Italians and Europeans still flock to Ischia for wellness treatments. A (dormant!) volcanic island, it’s renowned for its profusion of thermal pools, parks, spas, and wellness centers.
If you enjoy botanical gardens, be sure to venture inland to see the lush and exotic terraced gardens of La Mortella. One of the most extraordinary gardens in all of Europe, it was fifty years in the making. Today, it’s a spectacular panorama of orchids, ferns, palms, water lilies and fountains.
In summer the outdoor amphitheater offers musical concerts. Back when it was a private home, La Mortella hosted international celebrities like Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh and Maria Callas.
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Basilicata Region
(1 hour drive from Bari and 3 hours’ drive from Naples)
My memory of the first time I saw Matera will always remain vivid. It was early September when I arrived in this remote corner of Southern Italy at twilight. From the viewing deck of the Belvedere, nothing could have prepared me for the incomparable sight of Matera’s famous I Sassi. It was a truly spiritual moment.
The sassi (or “stones”) encompass more than 1,500 ancient cave dwellings carved out of local limestone, heaped atop one another in an astoundingly dramatic fashion along the sides of a steep ravine. Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, with people living here for over 9,000 years. That’s old!
The truly remarkable story of the sassi begins in Paleolithic times. At first, they were natural caves and grottoes. Over many millenia, they evolved into permanent but rugged homes where, as late as the 1950s, occupants still lived here in extremely rough conditions, minus electricity or running water. At this time, the Italian government moved the occupants into public housing in a modern part of the city.
But soon enough, by 1986, people began to return, transforming the legendary caves into homes, shops, hotels and restaurants. In 1993 the Sassi di Matera were named a UNESCO World Heritage site, as “the most outstanding, intact example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean region, perfectly adapted to its terrain and ecosystem.”
Matera and I Sassi were prominently featured in Mel Gibsons’s 2004 film The Passion of the Christ and, in 2017 scenes from Wonder Woman were shot here as well.
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Puglia Region
(45 minutes’ drive from Brindisi airport, 5 ½ hours by train from Rome)
Tucked away in the “heel of the boot”, on Italy’s southeastern edge, is the splendid town of Lecce. Nicknamed the “Florence of the South” or the “Baroque pearl of Italy” for its exquisite architecture, this southern Italian jewel is not to be missed. Lecce’s architecture is constructed of local limestone in warm sandy colors with voluptuous Baroque flourishes. This is a town to wander and lose yourself in. Stroll through its spider web streets with their ornate doorways and balconies, its piazzas anchored by elegant palazzi and glorious Baroque churches. I promise you amazing sights around every corner and at every turn.
One absolute must-see is the Basilica of Santa Croce. The lavish facade with its intricately carved decorations is pure Lecce Baroque splendor, guaranteed to take your breath away!
Lecce is also renowned for the art of papier-mâché craftsmanship (cartapesta in Italian). Using a mixture of paper and glue, artisans fashion figurines, puppets and sculptures, which when dried, are painted and decorated. This art-form is often used to create Nativity figures such as the Madonna, St. Joseph, Jesus, and the Three Kings. In the heart of the city’s old town, you’ll find many small workshops displaying cartapesta creations. Many of these also offer classes in the technique.
As always throughout Puglia, you’re never far from the ocean. Lecce is so close to the Adriatic Sea (10 kilometers) that it’s been said in ancient times the belltower of its Duomo doubled as a lighthouse! If you climb it, you’ll be rewarded with phenomenal views of the Adriatic. On a clear day, you can even see the mountains of Albania.
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Aeolian Islands, Sicily
(2 hours by ferry from the Port of Milazzo, 5 hours’ drive/ferry from Catania airport)
Salina is one of a cluster of seven volcanic islands, the Aeolian Islands, located off Sicily’s northeastern coast. This wonderful place is my first choice when I really want to escape it all! Its poetic charms, raw beauty, volcanic cliffs plunging into the sea, and relaxed, friendly atmosphere always call me back.
A network of freshwater springs also means the island is blanketed with green hills covered with wild capers (a fundamental ingredient in the local cuisine), olive groves and little vineyards producing the famous local Malvasia wine.
Picture what a lush Mediterranean paradise dotted with sleepy villages, warm pebbly beaches and local fishing boats might do for your soul! And one final surprise… Salina boasts two (almost hidden!) Michelin star restaurants.
The very best way to enjoy Salina and the Aeolian Islands is by water. Boat tours are readily available, and I recommend not merely touring Salina but excursions to the islands of Panarea and Stromboli as well.
See our website for small group or customized tours to Puglia, Sicily and more.
Italy travel expert dedicated to opening the real doors to my native country, so that you may have a truly authentic experience… and fall in love with Italy as your own. In every corner of my Italy, I’ve sought out the beauty and the pleasures of its landscapes, cities, villages and people. Many are famous or popular, but many others remain undiscovered or rarely experienced. I know them all well though, and I’m eager to share my knowledge with you.
Contact me for more information about booking a spectacular and affordable small group tour or designing an affordable custom tour of your dream trip to Italy.
With love and gratitude,
Giovanna Chiti